*ALERT* To whom it may concern: I plan to be in Peggy’s Cove on September 30th… This is a rough estimate, so give or take a few days, but for all the ladies planning to meet me there for hugs and kisses, be warned: you must proceed in an orderly fashion… Security will be present for crowd control and pictures with me will be available after the show… Ahem… Sorry, just a little wishful thinking there… OK, actually I plan to be completely alone aside from God’s presence shining from the clouds, the whales swimming by, the eagles soaring overhead, the rabbits and deer and wolves and bears emerging from the trees in perfect unity, the love of my life standing on the rocks with her long hair blowing in the wind as the ocean tide splashes over the rocky shore… Yikes! Sorry, there I go again… Hmmmm, maybe I need therapy… or a Skor Blizzard…

So apparently northern New Brunswick is just an extention of Quebec… I did see my first Canadian flag though, as I exited Quebec, and I thought of it as a worm on a hook… like, “Sure, we love Canada, look at our giant flag!”… and then you never see it again… But there are a lot of good people there, so I respect their right to be unique, and make poutine… glorious, glorious poutine…
Anyways, northern New Brunswick is entirely Francais… So as I just got used to using my french, it seems I’ll be using it longer than I thought… (by the way, I’ve been complimented 3 different times on my french, and a few times people were suprised to hear me speak english! Not bad for only having to speak french twice in 9 years… Maybe I should work for the CIA…)
So here’s the Quebec story:
Day 70: Hawkesbury to Montreal: I woke up early. Showered. Went downstairs and said good morning to Marie. She greeted me with tea and toast and eggs and fruit and oatmeal and a smile. I gladly accepted them all. We spoke long but it was good conversation and then I got packed up and ready to go. She prayed for me as I left and get this: she tells me I look good with my beard! Never had I expected such words to be spoken. I mean it’s allright, but I’ve never thought I could grow a spectacular beard like my dad. Well I guess this is good enough. Maybe I’ll keep it. (I don’t think she was just saying it to be nice either because we spoke about that compliment in some detail afterwords:)
I said my thank you’s and goodbye’s and using the details of the stranger I met the night before I wound my way through what was left of Ontario and through a sneaky little back road I entered Quebec. As I crossed into the world of french, I wasn’t expecting to see any signs to welcome me, but there was a little Quebec sign (in my pictures) and then my first “Arret” sign, which as I mentioned earlier, is supposed to mean stop, but nobody really seems to actually stop here in Quebec.
I then found the streets that would turn into “La Route Verte” which means Green Route, or Green Lane, but anyway it is a path for bikes to follow all through Quebec… It is a series of side-roads, or major roads with bike lanes or actual bike paths all conected to get you anywhere in Quebec you want to go… Very cool… So I followed the streets and paths into Montreal with ease and enjoyed the very noticeable change in culture, with the closely built houses, the numerous trees and the lack of fences…
As I made my way to the hotel (had to stay in one in Montreal) I passed by Place Jacques-Cartier which is where I enjoyed the best poutine I’ve ever had, about three years ago while I was in Montreal for one of many work contracts. After settling at the hotel, which wasn’t far, I made my way down for some poutine and practiced my french. I made short conversations with those I encountered, but managed to put a plate of steaming fries, gravy and curds in front of me. It was sublime, but not as good as I remembered. I then made my way back to the hotel (where there is a very nice lady at the counter:) and there was a group of tourists gathered around the TV there wacthing a movie. I joined them for a bit and had much free popcorn. I made my way back to my room and watched the Bears lose to the Packers. Ugh. I showered. I snacked. I slept.
Day 71: Montreal to Louiseville: Woke up late. Left late. But I did enjoy my free breakfast which included multiple croissants with melted cheese and jam. Said goodbye to the same nice lady at the counter who just happened to be working the morning after working the late shift. I got back on the trails in Montreal and tried to leave the city. For those of you who haven’t been to Montreal, it is a LARGE city and I spent half of my day winding through residential areas until I crossed the river. But on my way through I passed by a school where the kids were outside for recess. Through the chain-link fence, I could see I was approaching a group of kids, one of which was watching me intently. As I passed by, he got into a running position and took off! He was trying to race me along the fence all the way to the end. I took the challenge and kicked it into high gear with a devious look on my face. I passed the young man and just as I turned the corner at record speed, I could see the look of surprise/joy/defeat on his face. That’s right, I win.
I crossed the river and made it to Celine-Dion-ville. It’s not actually called that, I think it’s Charlemagne or something like that, but they have multiple shrines, signs and businesses dedicated to her and it’s no wonder she’s so high on herself; these people worship her! I got through the creepy town and made it to the outside of civilization and the start of farmer towns. It’s difficult to describe the beauty out there, but Quebec’s beauty really begins to show its colors when you exit the big city. Many trees and quaint homes scattered across corn fields and the like make up my field of view. I made it to Louiseville as the sun was going down and planned for Quebec City the next day.
Day 72: Louiseville to Levis: Woke up early. Really early. Left really early. I knew I had a lot of ground to cover, but I didn’t anticipate how long it would take to get there. I actually had some contacts in Levis, or more specifically, Pintendre, which is right across the river from Quebec City. Their names are Troy and Lorilee Weisner and they have four children. I found a phone to use and let them know what time I planned to be there. Lorilee said she would have dinner prepared for me. Sweet! After a good coversation with my parents, I made it to Trois Rivieres which has roads that look like an earthquake went through. I hit a large bump so bad that my front handlebar bag flew off, breaking the clips that hold it in. I had to go to Canadian Tire to buy a strap to keep it on.
I made it to Subway for lunch. At least if you go to a restaurant you can just point to something on the menu, but here was my first big challenge in french: ordering a sandwich. It was lunch hour so the lines were long and the french was flying back and forth around the room. I got up to the counter and tried my best to order, well it turned out that my accent was a problem and my vocabulary wasn’t quite up to par yet. I ended up pointing at stuff and nodding and as people stood in awe of the english speaking man who needs food. The lady “sandwich-artist” was actually very kind and accomodating and if there was one thing I learned it was to try speaking with their accent and remember as much vocabulary as I could. I got my sandwich though, but what a nightmare!
I realized a few hours down the road that time was ticking and so I phoned Troy and told him I would be late. At this point, I mist say, that I am quite fit now, compared to the beginning of the trip and my energy amazes me everyday, yet I still felt the need to settle for my good old tasty friend: the green Monster energy drink. Boom, down the hatch. Eyes popping, ready for a heart explosion. Well the drink probably did nothing other than give me a rush, but I didn’t even think about the kilometers passing by, I just rode. Up hills, against the wind, in the dark, it did not matter.
It was quite dark when I got to Quebec City but it wasn’t too late…yet. So I tried several ways to try and cross the river, but every route I took I was greeted with signs telling me I can’t bike there. Frustrated, I found a Mcdonald’s and phoned Troy asking him to pick me up. That’s right, I cheated. Although technically all the extra biking around I did would make up for the distance to Troy and Lorilee’s house but it was getting late and I had to make a decision. So this man whom I’ve never met comes to pick up this strange and crazy bike guy and him and his wife invite me into their home to offer me a plate of excellent food and a room to sleep in before heading to bed themselves. Thanks for your hospitality you guys! You are awesome. I can’t believe I tried to go as far as I did that day, but I made it to the house and that was enough for me. I ate. I slept in a nice comfy bed.
Day 73: Quebec City: I decided to take a day to rest after all the distance I covered the day before. I awoke to the sound of TSN sports centre and was up right quick. It’s Troy’s morning tradition to eat breakfast and watch sports. Me too! So I got a variety of breakfast items and watched and talked sports. Afterwords, Lorilee told me she was planning on going to visit a friend and she could drop me off at the ferry which goes to old Quebec City. A great way to enjoy the day I figured, so I accepted. Good thing too, because it was amazing. From the moment I arrived after the short ferry ride, the sun was shining and the place was bustling with tourists but not too many tourists.
I walked around for three hours and saw all I could see. I snapped pictures like never before and absorbed as much of the rich culture, architecture and atmsphere as I could. It reminds me of being in Europe and they do a really good job of keeping everything clean and beautiful. A lot of old Quebec is located on a hill with cliffs, so you can climb your way through the narrow roads and see all the old buildings, or you can ride a tram-car if you want. I walked. One thing that is quite evident with the french culture here, is their catholic churches. So many giant, beautiful and old churches dedicated to numerous saints are scattered accross old Quebec and for the most part, the whole province.
I needed to get back to the ferry, but before I did I bought a Quebec Nordiques T-shirt, which I can justify because if you’ve ever seen my pictures of me in Egypt, I was wearing my friends’ Winnipeg Jets T-shirt because the airplane lost my luggage. So I decided I will only wear anything Oilers related and anything from a dead franchise:) I love hockey!
The ferry took me back over the river and I still had some time before I was getting picked up so I went over to a small place called Capitaine’s and ordered their “mini” poutine. Well it wasn’t mini (good thing I didn’t order a large) but it was the best poutine I’ve ever had. It blew my montreal poutine experience right out of the water. If you ever get a chance to go to Levis, go to where the ferry takes off and check out Capitaine’s. So good. Multi-layered in heart-stopping goodness. Hey, I can burn it off, remember? Ha!
Well I got picked up, made it back to the house and met the kids. We enjoyed dinner together and then made our way to their favorite icecream place. I can’t remember the name but they serve soft-serve icecream in many flavours and then cover it in a thick and hard shell of either milk or dark chocolate. I ordered a medium maple icecream covered in dark chocolate. So good. Muli-layered in diabetic goodness. I can burn it off, remember?
Back at the house I got what I needed to get done, except for finish my blogging. But as I was blogging, Tim came down (the third oldest) and gave me $7 dollars of his own money for my cause. I didn’t know what to say, that’s a lot of money for a 6 year-old and I didn’t know how often he gets money. I graciously accepted and made sure he knew how thankful I was by leaving a note on his bed as I left the next morning. So I went to bed late because I was still blogging but had a great day.
Day 74: Levis to Riviere-Ouelle: I woke up early enough. Ate a big breakfast as Lorilee continued to offer me more food and I accepted. I got packed up and said goodbye to the amazing Weisner family (thanks again you guys!). I made my way to the river and got back on La Route Verte and noticed the wind wasn’t against me. It wasn’t really with me either but with the warm sun out, it was a perfect day for riding. I flew my way towards Riviere-Ouelle and found my way through more gorgeous Quebec countryside. Nothing of note to speak of on this day, but I found my way to the campground and randomly met up with another engish-speaking family from Vancouver Island with their daughter from Ottawa. After setting up my tent and investigating the showers, they invited me to join them for food and wine and conversation. We got to know eachother well and talked about many things. Through the course of the evening I got to know the interesting trio of Theda (the daughter) who has an amazing voice and shared some opera with us, Albert who has an interesting outlook on life and does pottery (I drank coffee out of a beautifully made mug) and Yvonne who is an artist and teaches any who are willing to learn from her isolated but gorgeous home near Vancouver Island.
After the socializing, I had a nice, long shower which cost me four quarters but was well worth it. I walked back over to my tent and Theda greeted me with a bag of her home-made dried fruit for my ride the next day. She urged me not to eat it until tomorrow, and I assured her I would try. I did not eat it until the next day. I said goodnight and enjoyed some time under the stars before going to sleep.
Day 75: Riviere-Ouelle to Saint-Louis De Ha! Ha!(seriously, that’s the name, look it up!): I woke up to a cloudy, rainy morning, but it stopped raining long enough to have a good breakfast. The trio of anglophones offered me some coffee, fruit and anything else they had. I gladly accepted and had a slice of the biggest and bect mangos I’ve ever had. They gave me more food to pack in my lunch and then we all got packed up and said goodbye. We didn’t know eachother very long, but long enough to feel the need to hug as we said goodbye:) I got going in good time and made my way towards Riviere-Du-Loup which is where my trail stops following the St. Laurent River.
It was raining as I rode there and I realized it was the first rain I’d seen since before Sault Ste. Marie in Ontario! It’s been a good run of weather for me since then. Well after an incredible ride along the shores of the river to Riviere-Du-Loup, I turned southward towards New-Brunswick. This is where the route presented me with something I did not expect. The trail started to wind its way through the trees and it continued that way to the New Brunswick border. Over 100 km of forest trail and it was amazing. The weather wasn’t all that great with the rain coming back and going but the wind was strong and it was at my back. I took some great pictures of the trail and it led me to a campsite in the middle of no-where right beside it.
Before dark, I managed to set up my tent, get a great fire going with wet wood and eat some dinner. At this point I realized I hadn’t used my “bearbangers” I had bought in BC to scare off bears. I guess I hadn’t been in a good place to test them out, far from people. Well here I was, far from anyone for miles and the chance to testing out something that explodes; I could not refuse the opportunity. I got in position with the pen-shaped launcher and let it loose. BANG! I’ve never been close to a shot-gun going off before, but I imagine that’s what it sounds like. Forget scaring off bears, I think everything living within a ten mile radius was heading for the hills. I went to bed confidant that nothing would bother me in the night. I was right.
Day 76: Saint-Louis De Ha! Ha! to Saint-Leonard: Well I woke up early and very alone in the woods. I made breakfast and got packed up. I realized as I prepared breakfast that I had to use my water bottle’s water for my oatmeal because there was no water around, so I made sure I grabbed some at the closest town. The day was another trek through the winding forest trail, down by a waterfront and then all the way to New Brunswick, which is where I realized that the trail actually continues through New Brunswick but now it’s called the Trans-Canada Trail. The problem is that it’s not finished, so I followed it for a ways into Edmunston, had some food, bought the cheapest pair of gloves I could find (it’s getting colder here) and then continued on down the highway towards Saint-Leonard. I found a nice and cheap and amazing little motel spot call P’Tit Auberge and stayed the night there. The bed is so comfortable, I slept really well.
Day 77: St. Leonard: I woke up late. Enjoyed the free coffee and muffins and ate breakfast. Got all packed up and ready to go and was offered another night to stay at the motel here for even cheaper. The owner even offered me hos laptop whcih is what I’m currently typing this out on. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get caught up and rested up for what is supposed to be a great day for weather tomorrow. And for a room cheaper than a campsite! So I’ll enjoy my time here and set out for Woodstock in the morning.
Thanks to everyone for all your support. Please continue to pray for me and know that I am still going strong and enjoying myself.
Until next time!
Jordan